8 Roll  Auto Replenishing

Please record the Serial No. ____________ and date of Purchase __________

The SSK-8R automatic processor accurately tempers each solution, one at a time. This design breakthrough allows B/W processing at 75 ^oF and then immediately afterwards slide processing 100 ^oF. Tempered water is not needed. Long warm-ups are not required.

All the solution bottles for processing color slides, color negatives and Black and White negatives are constantly connected. The operator just selects the process. The unit pumps the proper chemical from any of the 18 reservoir containers, quickly heats the small volume needed to the correct temperature and starts processing. As it processes one solution it prepares the next solution. At the end of the process cycle it automatically flushes itself clean, preparing itself for the next process.

SETTING UP THE UNIT

Place the unit on a flat level surface. Lift up the side and cut away and discard the two visible nylon straps from the bottom of the unit. These straps hold the pumps secure for shipping and must be removed for the pumps to work.

Prepare the solution bottles. a) Loosen NUT. b) Push in notched end of the ¼ OD black tubing through fitting to bottom of bottle. Leave about 2 inches (5 cm) exposed. c) Hand tighten nut. d) Rinse out bottle. You can use the collapsible bottles for developers; they will extend chemical life because there is no air interface.

Use the marker pen to label each bottle and lid with the chemical it contains. Cut a piece of clear flexible tubing long enough to run from the bottle to the back of the machine. RUN THE TUBING STRAIGHT DOWN from the back of the machine. After about a foot, the tubing can run in any direction Allow about 2 feet (60 cm.) extra for slack. Label both ends of the tubing with the chemical name. Slip one end over the proper tube and the other end over the exposed black tubing of the solution bottle. The 5 gal. Water bottle connects to the WATER (#5) tube.

IMPORTANT. The solution source bottles must be located below the processor.

The 5 gal. water bottle, which has a float valve near its lid, holds the water that will be used for processing and internal cleaning (FLUSHING) of the unit. You can manually fill the bottle. Use regular tap water, not de-ionized or distilled water. You can connect the bottle to a cold water pipe for automatic filling with the "ice maker" kit. TURN OFF THE WATER AT THE SOURCE WHEN THE MACHINE IS NOT IN USE.

The DUMP bottle comes with a level sensor that should be plugged into the DUMP SENSOR jack on the back of the unit. IT WILL SENSE IF YOU HAVE ENOUGH ROOM FOR A 2 or 4 ROLL RUN ONLY. The bottle must be emptied if you are doing a 6 or 8 roll run. If a plumbed-in drain is available, use it.

There are five drain outlets in the back of the unit:

1. DUMP - For spent chemistry. Connect to DUMP bottle or plumbed-in drain.

2. FLUSH - Disposes of spent FLUSH water. Connect to DUMP bottle or drain.

3. SAVE FIX - Recovers the solution to be saved. Active only when SAVE switch is on (red is showing). Connect to separate bottle.

• 4. SAVE BLEACH - Recovers solution to be saved. Active when SAVE switch is on. Connect to separate bottle.

5. OVERFLOW - DO NOT CONNECT. If solution comes out of this outlet, check your FLUSH tubing for proper installation.

Run tubing directly to DUMP bottle. (Fig. 1)

Cut off unneeded length of dump tubing. (Fig. 1)

Run the DUMP and the FLUSH tubing separately into the 3" gray fitting on the DUMP bottle. Do not put a third tubing into the same fitting. Do NOT run tubing inside DUMP bottle. (Fig. 2). Allow at least 12" drop between unit and DUMP bottle.

Open the DOOR by lifting up from the bottom and pulling out. Place the magnetic stirrer (white pill) in the exposed heat tank. Carefully push the stirrer with a pencil until it is magnetically caught near the back right corner of the tank. Turn SIDEKICK on and check if the stirrer is turning.

Put in six Alkaline "C" Cells in the battery holder. This will allow the unit to continue after a power failure and protect it against power surges. Plug the power cord into a 120 Volt AC 15 Amp. (regular domestic) outlet.

Turn off SSK for at least 10 seconds. Hold down the START switch as you turn SSK on. Release the START switch. SSK will show the programming instruction. (See PROGRAM MODE for a fuller explanation). SSK will then display "USER CODE" " # (any number)". Change the number by pressing – ( MINUS) telling SSK you want to make a change. Then pressing PLUS(+) to increase the number. When "7" is displayed, press START. SSK will record the information. After it is finished "RECORDING", you can use PLUS to look through all your options or just turn SSK off.

Make sure SSK is level by inserting the bottom half of the large DRUM in the SSK. Pour water into the DRUM until it is about ½" from the top. Measure the distance from the water to the top of the DRUM at the front and the back of the DRUM. Level the SSK with shims until the distances are equal. Run DRAIN to empty the DRUM. See SPECIAL FUNCTIONS.

In a dark box, load the film on the reel (see REEL LOADING). Slide the reel on the spindle with the film guide pointing in the direction shown. If there is room on the spindle, use the SPACER (goes on last) to conserve chemistry. Place the spindle inside the FILM DRUM. Cover the spindle with the lid (one side is shaped to go over the spindle). Slide the clips towards the ends of the FILM DRUM to close it. You are now light tight.

Push the FILM DRUM to the left in the TROUGH till the SNOUT seats itself inside the COUPLING. The two stainless pins of the spindle should go on opposite sides of the STAPLE on the rotate motor.

Look to make sure you have enough solution in the chemical bottles. Empty the DUMP bottle. Turn the unit ON. Use PLUS to select the type of film you are processing. Push START to begin the process.

The unit will ask you how many rolls (35 mm) are being processed. Use "PLUS to select : "2" for 1 or 2 rolls of 35mm or 1 roll of 120/220. Use SPACER.

"4" for 3 or 4 rolls of 35mm, 2 rolls of 120/220 or a 4x5 sheet film holder.

"6" for 5 or 6 rolls of 35mm, 3 rolls of 120/220 or 2 4x5 holders (8 sheets). Use SPACER

"8" for 7 or 8 rolls of 35mm, 4 or 5 rolls of 120/220.

The SSK uses 2 oz. (60ml) of solution per run, plus 3 ½ oz. (105 ml) per roll.

If you want to change the developing times see PUSH PROCESSING.

Up to 4 rolls of 35 mm film can be dried in the included UTILITY DRYER on reels. The film can also be dried any other way. The base of 120 film is too thin for drying on a reel, and must be dried by other means.

Place the UTILITY DRYER vertically in the TROUGH so that the cut away portion of the DRYER covers the air vent in the side of the TROUGH. Shake out each reel 4 times over a sink with a vigorous snap of the wrist to remove excess solution. Put the reels on the dryer spindle (closed end on the bottom) and put the spindle in the UTILITY DRYER

Push START to begin drying. SSK will FLUSH itself as it is drying the film. The unit MUST BE ALLOWED TO FLUSH itself after every processing run. The required drying time will vary with the amount of film and the relative humidity of the room. If the film is not fully dry when the dryer stops (15 min.), dry again. Rinse all reels, spindle and drum with COLD water. Room air dry - hot air may distort the parts. RINSE, DO NOT IMMERSE THE DRUM.

If you get drying marks, try the following: a) use distilled water for the last step. b) dilute the wetting agent or stabilizer. c) use softened water. d) rinse externally in distilled water. e) squeegee and hang up to dry. Film with drying marks can be re-rinsed and dried again.

The plastic ratcheting reels can be adjusted to hold different sizes of film. Simply hold the reel in both hands, making sure that the outer spiral groove (near the ball bearings) is on top and facing you.

Twist the right half of the reel clockwise until you hear a click. The two halves can then be pulled apart. There are 3 "keyed" positions on the reel hub. The narrowest position is for 35mm or 126, the second for 127, and the widest for 120/220.

Insert the leading end of the film, emulsion down, into the outer spiral groove of the reel and an inch past the ball bearings. With both hands on the reel twist the right half and the left half in opposite directions. You may have to assist the film feeding by placing the thumb, of your forward moving hand, on the outside of the film.

Keep feeding the film until the end clears the ball bearings.

Any Paterson ^TM reels will work. They are available at most photo stores. Contact Photo-Therm if you prefer to use different style reels.

35 MM FILM Cut off the film leader. Clip the corners of the leading end to make feeding easier. 35 mm film can be started past the ball bearing in the light, but must be fed into the reel in the dark. Twist one side of the reel back and forth to feed the film into the reel. When you reach the end of the film use scissors to cut it away from the film cassette. Do not tear the film. An uneven tear may cause the film to come off the reel.

120/220 FILM. Separate the tape from the backing paper and fold it back over the film. This will stiffen the end of the film. Load the taped end into the reel. Feed until the back end passes the ball bearings.

Bend a 120 Film Clamp and place it over the end of the film into the grooves of the reel, close to the ball bearings, as shown above. Add a second film clamp on top of the first one. For extra assurance use a 1 in. piece of leader tape to bond the end of the film to the film clamp.

Just turn the power switch ON for normal operation. Hold down the START switch as you turn the power switch ON to be able to PROGRAM process values. Hold the PLUS switch when turning on to see the roll count and run DUMP tubing test and valve test.

PROGRAM MODE will allow you to change the set processing values. Select by holding START as you turn SSK on.

SSK will first show you programming instructions.

Use MINUS when you want to change settings. Minus will also lower the time when changing times.

Use PLUS to advance the selections and increase the settings.

START records the changes.

Turn the power switch off to exit programming.

Change # to 7 for the unit to operate. Push MINUS to make a change. Push PLUS until 7 is displayed and then push START to record the change. This is only done once when you first get Super Sidekick. After recording either turn off the unit for at least 10 seconds to exit or push PLUS to look at the next parameter.

Changes the percent of replenishment. Push MINUS to change. One number at a time will start blinking. Use PLUS to increase the number. Push MINUS to move to the next number. When all the numbers are correct, push START to record.

The next few screens let you change the set developer times. (Changing the developer time for one processing run only (Pushing), is done during normal processing as the process is selected.)… push MINUS to make a change, use PLUS and MINUS to select the time and then push START to record.

If you want to use the included utility dryer right after processing, set to "YES". If you will dry the films externally (recommended), set to "NO".

Select the slide process you want to use: whether 4 or 7 step, with or without prewet. You can also choose not to show slides as a selection to the operator.

Select the color negative process you want to use: C-41 or bleach & fix combined, with or without prewet. You can also choose not to show color negatives as a selection.

You can change the time of any step in any process. You can remove any step by making the time less then 2 minutes. In Black & White any changes after developer affect all the Black & White processes. Push MINUS to make changes, push PLUS to select the process, then push MINUS to change the times in that process. PLUS selects the solution, MINUS will let you make changes and then PLUS and MINUS change the time. START records the selection. Exit by turning Super Sidekick off.

Select the solutions you want to save to the BLEACH SAVE and FIX SAVE tubes. Push MINUS to make a change, push PLUS to select the process, then push MINUS to change the solutions you want to save in that process. PLUS changes the choice (Yes or No) and START records the change. Exit by turning Super Sidekick off.

You can change the rotational speed of the spindle. Push MINUS to make a change. PLUS will advance the selections and then START will record the changes.

TEST MODE Select by holding PLUS as you turn SSK ON. It will first display roll and run counts and then show the number of pump pulses used to cover each of the level sensors.

DUMP TUBING installation is tested by pumping up water into the large film drum and letting it drain out. The cycle is repeated 3 times. Connect the DUMP and FLUSH tubing to your drain or bottle. Fill the water bottle with water and connect it to tube #5. Insert the large DRUM into SSK, keep the top off so you can observe the action. The DRUM should fully empty every time it drains. If it does not, turn the unit off and recheck your DUMP tubing. You can empty the HEAT TANK and DRUM by running DRAIN in NORMAL MODE.

The VALVE TEST is selected by pushing PLUS. Insert the PLUG into the coupling. When you push any switch, a valve will open and the FILL pump will turn on as long as you hold the switch. It will pump any solution in the HEAT TANK out of the DUMP/SAVE tubes. You can use the CALIBRATE function in NORMAL mode to pump some water into the HEAT TANK.

This mode individually checks all of the machine function, sensors and actuators. SSK may have to be opened to reach some of the sensors. See SERVICE.

Will display any level sensor that senses solution. SSK has the following Level sensors: Low, 2-roll, 4-roll, 6-roll, 8 roll, drain level (located inside the coupling) and the rotary selector valve (SSK-8R only). The SAVE switch can also be tested as a level sensor.

You can test the sensors by connecting a clip lead between the solder lug on the side of the HEAT TANK (central grounding [earth]) and the sensor.

If none of the level sensors is made, you can push MINUS to go to the VALVE test, PLUS to go to the PUMP test and START to go to OTHER tests.

Pushing the switches will open the valves. (The valve test in TEST MODE allows you to check flow through the valve by also turning on the FILL pump). Hold MINUS and push PLUS to go back to LEVEL TESTER. Pumps are tested the same way. AUXILIARY is reserved for future needs.

DR&ROT (push MINUS) will turn on the dryer and the spindle ROTATE motor. TEMP (push PLUS) will show the HEX readings of the DRUM and HEAT TANK sensors, show the voltage (120/230) and then take a few readings in HEX of the actual voltage.

Wipe off all spills when they occur.

Keep the stainless contact plates on the DRUM clean. Never touch with fingers. Clean daily with alcohol and buff with Scotch Brite. Bend in the contactor springs on the body periodically.

Use silicone grease to lubricate the "O" ring on the SNOUT of the processing DRUM as needed.

Inspect the plastic sleeve on the STAPLE that turns the spindle - replace if worn.

Clean the reels as needed by soaking in a 50% solution of household bleach for 5 minutes. Rinse well with hot water.

ONCE A YEAR, open the unit (see SERVICE), unplug it first, and:

1. Protect the PC board from getting wet. Cover it with paper towels and a plastic sheet.

2. Examine for any signs of wetness.

3. Clean the heat tank and the area above the heat tank with a cloth dampened with a toilet bowl cleaner.

4. Replace the air filter on the dryer with a 3" square of air conditioner filter.

5. Remove the protection for the PC board and push down on all the connectors.

6. Close up the unit.

ALARMS & MESSAGES DO NOT TURN UNIT OFF until you check why.

DISCARD DEV! SEE BOOK ERR# 1 means that the developer did not drain out. Work quickly, but calmly. The film is safe.

1. Pull the film DRUM out and quickly stop up the end of the snout with your finger.
2. Go to a sink or bucket and let the developer drain out of the snout.
3. Re-insert the DRUM back into SSK.

CHK DRAIN TUBES SEE BOOK ERR# 2 means that some solution (not developer) did not drain. Push start to stop the buzzer. Check your drain tubing. Is the tubing crimped? Is the DUMP bottle full? When you have found the problem, correct it and push START to let the process continue.

CLEAN DRUM SENS! SSK has tested the DRUM temperature sensor and determined that it needs cleaning. Wipe with alcohol to remove grease and fingerprints. Buff with Scoth-Brite. Push in the contactor springs.

CLEAN LEVEL SENSRS SSK has determined that one of your level sensors in the heat tank may have some slime or a hair hanging from it. Open the unit (see CORRECTING PROBLEMS / OPENING the UNIT) and clean off the sensors. Check for any moisture inside the unit.

REPL FILL PUMP SSK has determined that your FILL pump needs replacing.

WATER prewet    Time   Temp     5   Checks drum temp

SLD DEV eloper  6:30   37.8     2  Very precise

WATER wash (3x) 2:00   37.8     5

SLD REV ersal   3:00   37.8     18

SLD C olor DEV  4:00   37.8     17 Very precise

SLD CONDitioner 3:00   37.8     16 pre-bleach

SLD BLEACH      8:00   37.8       6

COLOR FIX       4:00   37.8      13 SAVED FIX if switch ON

WATER wash (3x) 2:00   37.8     5 also used by C41 FIX

WATER prewet    Time    Temp     5 Checks room temp

SLD DEV eloper  6:30    37.8     2 Very precise

WATER wash (2X) 2:00    23.9     5 Acts as cool stop

WATER wash      2:00    37.8      5

SLD C olor DEV  4:00    37.8     17 Very precise

WATER wash (2X) 2:00    23.9     5

WATER wash      2:00    37.8      5

SLD BLIX        10:00   37.8      6 SAVED FIX when switch is ON

WATER wash (3x) 2:00    37.8     5

WATER preheat   Time    Temp    5 Checks drum temp

C41 DEV eloper  3:15    37.8    3 Very precise

C41 BLEACH      6:00    35.5 8

WATER wash      2:00    35.5 5

COLOR FIX       6:00    35.5     13 SAVED FIX if switch ON

WATER wash (2X) 2:00    35.5    5 also used by E6 FIX

WATER prehwet   Time    Temp    5 Checks room temp

C41 DEV eloper  3:15    37.8    3 Very precise

C41 BLIX        3:00    35.5     8 SAVED FIX when switch is ON

WATER wash      2:00    35.5      5

B&W DEV eloper  5:45    29.3    4 end of BW process is same

END OF BLACK & WHITE Common to all BW processes.

WATER wash      2:00    23.9      5 also acts as stop

B&W FIX         7:00    23.9      14 SAVED FIX is switch ON

WATER wash      2:00    23.9      5

B&W P erma WASH 2:00    23.9    15 hypo clear or water

WATER wash      2:00    23.9      5

BLACK AND WHITE

Use: 1. Kodak T-Max^im developer (B/W DEV) 2. Rapid B/W FIX 3. Hypo clearing agent (B/W P WASH) such as Heico Perma-Wash^tm 4. B/W RINSE Photo-Flo (Kodak) or Rexton’s Hyperwet^tm. Mix T-Max developer 1 part concentrate to 5 parts water. It works better in a Sidekick than Kodak’s recommendation of 1:4.

COLOR NEGATIVES C-41

Use working strength solutions of any C-41 chemistry. Overflow solutions work well. If you use replenishers remember to add starter to the developer to get a working strength solution.

RA C-41 chemistry works well with the standard bleach and fix times. If you would like to shorten the bleach and fix times see PROGRAM MODE.

SLIDES 7 STEP E-6

Bleach should be aerated (have air pumped through it). Use a fish tank type air pump and run the tubing to the bottom of the bleach bottle. Do not use an airstone. Run for at least 2 hours a day. Check reversal for scum growth - discard, clean bottle, re-mix. Check color developer for separation - re-stir with mixing rod.

SLIDES 4 STEP E-6

Unicolor, Photo-Technology, Tetanol or Beseler chemistry will work. (Some manufacturers call their chemistry 3 step - they don’t include a wetting/stabilizing step. Use C-41 stabilizer or a wetting agent (Hyper-wet or Photo-Flo) for this step.

PROCESSES OTHER

MOTION PICTURE FILM (black layer on base). Process ECN-2. Process like normal C-41 film. Since SIDEKICK can use fresh solutions for each step, the black residue does not gum up the unit. Turn SAVE switch OFF. After the last step, rinse under warm water and gently rub the remaining residue from the film base. Do not touch the emulsion. Hang film to dry. Wash reels with a soft brush in dish detergent.

Mix color chemistries in water that is at least 85 ^oF (29 ^oC). Stir well. Wait one hour before using.

If you want to change the developer time for one run, hold MINUS as you push START. The display will show the developer time. Change to desired time using the PLUS and MINUS. When the proper time is displayed push START to begin. The next time you process the unit will return to the normal time.

As a rough guide, 1 stop is about:

a) + 2 min. for Slides E-6.

b) + 30 sec for color negs C-41.

c) + 20% of normal dev time for B/W

Call film manufacturer for more complete information.

4 X 5 INSTRUCTIONS (optional)

Practice loading the 4x5 HOLDER with the lights on. The HOLDER will process 4 sheets at a time.

The 2 stainless clips are on the TOP of HOLDER. Rotate both clips toward the center core.

Insert the sheets with the emulsion towards the center. 4x5 sheet film has notches in one corner. Hold the sheet facing you with the longer side vertical. When the notches are at the top right corner, the emulsion is facing you.

Load the 2 inside sheets first. Load from the TOP of the HOLDER. Squeeze the film so that it can fit inside the ring of the HOLDER. Push the sheet into the groove. Use your other hand to help guide the sheets.

After all the sheets have been loaded, rotate the stainless clips toward the outside ring to hold in the sheets.

The spindle should then be inserted from the bottom of the HOLDER. Place the spindle with the HOLDER(S) in the Processing DRUM and process normally. Select DRUM SIZE = 4 for 1 HOLDER in the 4-roll DRUM and DRUM SIZE = 6 for 2 HOLDERS in the 8-roll DRUM.

After processing:

1. Remove the HOLDER(S) from the spindle.

2. Rotate the stainless clips toward the center core of the HOLDER

3. Push the sheet up slightly from the bottom.

4. Pull the sheet from the TOP. Use your other hand to help guide the sheet.

5. Use your own method to dry the sheets.

6. Rinse the HOLDER(S), spindle and DRUM. AIR DRY. DO NOT USE HOT AIR.

Very thin base 4x5 film like Kodalith will not mount in the holder.

Initially set up your unit to run without automatic replenishment. When you are familiar with the operation and satisfied with the results, start using the replenishment option.

Super Sidekick model SSK-8R can replenish any 2 chemicals, usually bleach and fix for a great reduction in chemical costs. You get the highest quality results, because the developers are fresh.

Replenishment is turned on when 3 conditions are met:

1. The solution is saved as either bleach or fix. Save only one of each when you are replenishing.
2. The SAVE switch on the back of the SSK is turned on (red showing).
3. The percentage of replenishment as set in PROGRAM MODE is not zero. See PROGRAM MODE. Start with 9% bleach and 30% fix replenishment.

 

Replenishers are connected like any other solution: bleach to tube #7 and fix to tube #12.

The SAVED solution drains to a HOLDING bottle, next time SSK uses that solution it will pump up the set percent of replenisher and then pump up the used solution. When the solution is used again, it drains back to the HOLDING bottle.

Because of the added replenisher, the volume in the HOLDING bottle increases. You have to arrange the bottle so that the overflow flows away or is emptied manually.

The RETURN tubes are connected to the SAVE FIX and SAVE BLEACH tubes on the back of Super SIDEKICK.

Connect the HOLDING bottle as per drawing:

1. The RETURN tubing must follow all the rules of a DUMP line.

a. Keep it short and going down as quickly as possible.

b. Minimum of a 12" drop.

c. End of tubing must never be in solution.

2. Allow 2 feet of slack on USED tubing.

3. Aerate the bleach with a fish tank air pump (2 hours/day or more) through the air fitting. Do not use an airstone.

4. The OVERFLOW should be directed to your container.
5. Use black ¼" tubing to reach the bottom of the HOLDING tank for USED and Air.

Monitor your process results. If the film does not clear (milky) increase the fix replenishment rate. You can usually re-fix the film manually to correct the problem.

If the film looks flat, muddy or the black areas have a red tinge, increase the bleach replenishment rate and/or make sure the bleach is aerated. You can usually re-bleach the film to correct the problem.

Use a telephone near Sidekick when calling in for service.

OPENING the UNIT. Qualified Personnel only

The unit must be opened in order to reach the internal components.

SELECTOR VALVE REPLACEMENT

Open the unit (see OPENING). Cover the PC Board with paper towels and a plastic sheet to protect it from getting wet. The SELECTOR VALVE (SV) is now exposed. The tubing from the SV is held against the side of the case by a clamp. Open the clamp. With a paper towel in hand; remove the SV tubing from the pump fitting.

Remove the ribbon connector of the SV from the PC board. Carefully lift the connector straight up. Do not bend the pins. The SV is held with 4 screws. Unscrew and remove SV.

Carefully turn the SV so that it lines up on tube #9. Install the new SV. Fasten with the 4 screws. Clamp the tubing to the case. The black mark on the tubing should line up with the bottom of the clamp block. Push the end of the tubing onto the pump.

Remove the protective socket from the connector of the new SV and place it on the old SV connector. Replace the electrical connector in the socket marked SELECTOR VALVE on the PC board. The mark on the connector should be on the lower left corner.

Close up the unit. Do a test processing run.

PRINTED CIRCUIT (PC) BOARD REPLACEMENT

Open the unit (see OPENING). Locate the circuit board. Carefully note how each connector is mounted before you pull it from the board. Pull away squarely from the board, be careful not to bend the pins. Do not just yank the ribbon cables. Rotate the 2 clamps holding the PC board and remove it.

Push the new PC against the stop on the right side of the track and then twist the clamps. Carefully replace all the connectors. Use the wiring diagram (p.16) as a guide for positioning. Close the unit and run CALIBRATE (see SPECIAL FUNCTIONS).

TEMPERATURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT

Open the unit (see OPENING). Locate the heating tank. The temperature sensor screws into the side of the heating tank. There are 2 wires connecting the sensor. One goes to a solder lug, and the other is soldered to a black wire. Cut away both wires (the wires are interchangeable).

Wrap the new sensor with 4 wraps of Teflon tape and screw into the heat tank. Solder the 2 wires where you cut the old wires. Close the unit and run CALIBRATE (see SPECIAL FUNCTIONS) to match the sensor to the PC board.

SOLUTION LEVEL SETTING

Open the unit (see OPENING). Locate the 5 level sensors on the heat tank. The sensor closest to the left corner is low level (4 oz -120 ml) followed by: 9 oz, 15 oz, 22 oz and 29 oz. Pour the proper amount of water (start with 4 oz then add 5 oz etc.) into the heat tank. Hold the sensor where it passes over the tank wall with one hand and bend the end of the sensor with the other hand so that the sensor just touches the water. Empty the heat tank by closing the unit and running DRAIN (see SPECIAL FUNCTIONS).

SHIPPING the UNIT

Prepare the unit by running CLEAN LINES (see SPECIAL FUNCTIONS). Open the unit (see OPENING) and wipe up any loose solutions. Tie down the 2 pumps (through the holes in the base) with strong twine. Remove the magnetic stirrer (white pill) from inside the heat chamber. Close the unit. Remove and keep stir bar, plug and power cord.

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 First turn your unit on leaving the drum off and press the start button. If it starts, let the unit load the water up and see which sensor in the heating chamber it stops. If it stops at the middle sensor, the two roll drum sensor is bad and must be changed. If its the third, then its the four roll drum sensor.

If you find nothing on the rubber seal or in side the valve body, remove the other solenoid and check there

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Stuck in process, Bubbles from Front of Drum

If the unit appears stuck in one part of the process and you here a pump running and bubbles coming from the front of the processing drum, the low level sensor is making contact to the steel base plate of the heating chamber, causing the unit to think there is still solution in there. First remove the door on the right side of the unit so you will be able to look inside the heating chamber. Look at the sensor furthest away from you. Make sure it is not touching the bottom and that the spinbar has not come loose and has wedged itself between the sensor and the bottom. If the sensor is touching, readjust it to 3oz of water. If the spinbar is the problem, take a pencil and give it a shove to the right side corner. There a magnet will grab it and hold it place.

If the above two are alright:

Take a pencil and run it under all the level sensors. If the pump stops and the process continues, there was something like a hair or algae from reversal hanging on the first level sensor. After the process, inspect the heating chamber and clean. Also if your running 7 step E6 chemistry, inspect your reversal bottle for algae.

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First make sure there is enough chemical in the bottle. If that is not the problem, then the selector valve is sticking slightly and needs a few lube cycles run on it.

Turn the unit on, hold the plus button until you reach "Lube". Press the start button. Wait until the unit beeps and tells you to "turn off unit".

Take the allen wrench that came with the unit and insert it into the grease fitting in the back of the unit. Looking from the front, it is above the last steel tube from the selector valve on the right. Give it 1/2 turn clockwise and turn the unit on until it Initializes.Repeat the process again.

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Stuck in "Flush"

This is the only function the machine will not alarm if there is a problem.

First make sure you have not run out of water or using deionized water. If there is plenty of water, look in the heating chamber to see if there is water in it. If there is, see if there is water coming out the flush line. If there is no water coming out the flush line and the heating chamber has some water in it, turn the unit off then back on again and select drain. If the heating chamber empties out, the load pump, the pump that draws the solutions in the unit is failing. If it does not drain out, the fill pump is failing

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If all the above seems good, call the tech support at Photo-Therm

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Only Half the Roll Develops

If after processing you find only half the roll was developed, find out first if the correct amount was selected from the display, 2, 4, 6, or 8 and if the spacer was used if it was a 1, 2, 5, 6 roll run.

If all the above was correct, check your spindle for bent pins. When the pins on the spindle becomes bent in, it has a tendency to push off the staple bushing during the process, leaving the spindle stationary. When that happens, only the bottom half of the reel receives chemistry, giving you a pattern of so many good frames, so many bad.

If the above two seem good, insert the drum that was used, select the amount that was chosen, and start an E6 run. The first solution that gets drawn up is water, so you wont be wasting chemistry.

On the right hand side of the machine is a black door that you can remove and look inside the heating chamber. If you selected 2 rolls, the water should stop at the second level sensor ( from left to right ). If it was 4, it would be the middle sensor, 6 the forth sensor, and 8 the last.

If it stops at a different sensor, there is a problem with either with the circuit board or the ribbon cable that runs from the heating chamber. in this case, it's best to call PhotoTherm tech support, (609) 396-1456.

If the water stops at the correct sensor,

Take your largest drum, no lid or spindle, insert it in the unit and add water. Let sit for 10 minutes. If the level drops in the drum you will have to remove the valve assembly. Chances are there is a piece of film stuck in there causing the valve to remain open during the process

It is located on the inside of the unit and in the middle. You can identify it by its blue body and the two or three solenoids that is attached to it. if its two solenoids, the wires will be yellow and black on one side and white and black on the other.If it has three, the wire colors are, Grey and black, yellow and black and white and black.

You can remove the valve assembly by removing the two screws that hold it in the   Grey rectangular plastic block. Cover the circuit board!  Start by removing the solenoid with the yellow and black wire.

If you find nothing on the rubber seal or in side the valve body, remove the other solenoid and check there

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Processing drum starts to count down

If after you insert the four or the eight roll processing drum and press start the drum starts to count down on the display, the sensor inside the drum has shorted and the drum must be replaced. If this happens on both drums, the contactors on the machine my be making contact inside

Open the unit and inspect each contact from the inside.

Make sure both wires are tighten to the contacts, and that they are not touching each other.

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If the first few frames are not getting developed, there is not enough solution in the processing drum to reach the center of the reel

Working from left to right, add 4oz of water to the heating chamber.Make sure the tip of the first sensor is just touching the surface of the water.Add 5 more oz of water, giving you 9 oz's and adjust the second sensor. Now add 6 more oz of water giving you 15 oz's and adjust the third. Now add 7 more oz of water giving you 22oz of water and adjust the forth then 7 more oz and and adjust the fifth. IF YOUR FOUR ROLL DRUM IS THE NEWER STYLE WITH RED CLIPS HOLDING THE TOP TO THE DRUM, THEN THE MEASUREMENTS ARE, 4oz, 7oz, 4oz, 7oz, 7oz.  

If you find nothing on the rubber seal or in side the valve body, remove the other solenoid and check there

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Machine will not Draw up Chemicals

Reassemble and run "Clean Lines" to insure it is working well.

 Unit Diagram

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Only Half the Roll Develops sk4

If after processing you find only half the roll was developed, try these test to determine where the problem is.

If the unit beeps and displays "insert proc drum", check your level sensors for correct settings.Working from left to right, add 3oz of water to the heating chamber.Make sure the tip of the first sensor is just touching the surface of the water.Add 4 more oz of water, giving you 7 oz's and adjust the middle sensor. Now add 7 more oz of water giving you 14 oz's and adjust the third.If good, check to see if your heating chamber empties out when fill the processing drum.. Third, If all the above was correct, check your spindle for bent pins. When the pins on the spindle becomes bent in, it has a tendency to push off the staple bushing during the process, leaving the spindle stationary. When that happens, only the bottom half of the reel receives chemistry, giving you a pattern of so many good frames, so many bad. Forth, try taking your largest drum, no lid or spindle, insert it in the unit and add water. Let sit for 10 minutes. If the level drops in the drum you will have to remove the valve assembly. Chances are there is a piece of film stuck in there causing the valve to remain open during the process

If you find nothing on the rubber seal or in side the valve body, remove the other solenoid and check there

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Machine Stuck in Process-Rotary selector valve

If the SideKick appears to become stuck in a process and you have a rotary selector valve,

(circular with 18 tubes), the most common cause is chemical build up on the sensor wheel located inside the unit causing it to loose postion.

First open the machine and remove the rotary selector valve. Carefully disassemble the valve and clean the wheel and face plate with hot water and soap. Concentrate on cleaning the cutaways on the sensor wheel, located under the triangular pressure plate.

USE ONLY A PAPER TOWEL TO CLEAN PARTS WITH, NOTHING ABRASIVE!

Reassemble the selector valve and mount it back on machine.

Turn unit on. The machine will position the selector valve automatically

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Slides look "Grey" or "Dirty"

If your slides have a "Grey" or "Dirty" look to them, this is from under fixing.  To eliminate other causes, try, in 7 step chemistry, refixing your film, in 4 step reblixing. Roll the processed film back on a reel and place the reel in a small container. Fill the container with enough fresh fix or blix to cover the reel. Let sit for 10 minutes. Remove from the container, wash the film off and dry. If the film clears up, remix the fix or blix.

If refixing or reblixing had no effect on the look of the film, call phototherm tech support.   (609) 396-1456

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Black and White Film looks Grainy

The most common cause of grainy black and white film is the developer is a little to concentrate.If your using Tmax developer, mix at a 5 to 1 ratio instead of the instructed 4 to 1. This should remove most of this condition.

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B/W Film looks over developed

If your B/W film looks over developed, this is usually from the temperature being to high.

First, when you mix the developer, make sure the temperature of the mixed developer is not above the processing temperature.Let the newly mixed chemistry sit for a period of time to lower the temperature.

Second, run a "Calibrate Temp" to make sure the Heating chamber is alright. Also if you own an sk8, sk8rg, sk8rh or a super sidekick, make sure the contactors on the drum and machine are clean and making good contact. Check HERE to find out how  

Third, if your selector valve is the old style, (13 stainless steel tubes) run a "dummy run" no film, and time the developer. If its to long, the problem is the selector valve is low on grease causing it to take a long time to make it to its next position. This will add time on your developer

Run the lube cycle 2 or 3 times

Turn the unit on, hold the plus button until you reach "Lube". Press the start button. Wait until the unit beeps and tells you to "turn off unit".

Take the allen wrench that came with the unit and insert it into the grease fitting in the back of the unit. Looking from the front, it is above the last steel tube from the selector valve on the right. Give it 1/2 turn clockwise and turn the unit on until it Initializes.Repeat the process again.

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Under Developed Black and White

If your B/W is coming out under developed  either your temperature is to low or your first developer is weak or diluted

1. Make sure that you are not "flooding" from the processing drum. If during the process the drum starts leaking chemistry, causing it to build up in the area underneath, a contamination is occurring in side the drum. One chemical is being loaded on top the previous solution, causing the newly loaded chemical to weaken . If this condition occurs, the processed film will almost always come out dark or magenta.

Check to document on "Flooding at Drum" to correct this problem

2. If you are not flooding, make sure the temperature is correct in the heating chamber. Run a "Calibrate Temp" from the unit and if you own an 8 roll unit or a super sidekick check your drums

3. If your temperature is correct, remix developer

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C41 Film looks Grainy

The most common cause of grainy C41 film is the developer is a little to concentrate or the agitation is to fast. Try diluting the developer by 1 part. If that does not help call PhotoTherm tech support about the rotate motor (609) 398-1456

If you own a Super Sidekick 8rh, go to the programming mode and

re adjust the rotate speed

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C41 Film looks over developed

If your C41 film looks over developed (dark), this is usually from the temperature being to high or the starter is old or not used.

First, when you mix the developer, check your mixing instructions. Then make sure the temperature of the mixed developer is not above the processing temperature.Let the newly mixed chemistry sit for a period of time to lower the temperature.

Second, run a "Calibrate Temp" to make sure the Heating chamber is alright. Also if you own an sk8, sk8rg, sk8rh or a super sidekick, make sure the contactors on the drum and machine are clean and making good contact. Check HERE to find out how  

Third, if your selector valve is the old style, (13 stainless steel tubes) run a "dummy run" no film, and time the developer. If its to long, the problem is the selector valve is low on grease causing it to take a long time to make it to its next position. This will add time on your developer

Run the lube cycle 2 or 3 times

Turn the unit on, hold the plus button until you reach "Lube". Press the start button. Wait until the unit beeps and tells you to "turn off unit".

Take the allen wrench that came with the unit and insert it into the grease fitting in the back of the unit. Looking from the front, it is above the last steel tube from the selector valve on the right. Give it 1/2 turn clockwise and turn the unit on until it Initializes.Repeat the process again.

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Under Developed C41

If your C41 is coming out under developed, (light)   either your temperature is to low or your developer is weak or diluted

1. Make sure that you are not "flooding" from the processing drum. If during the process the drum starts leaking chemistry, causing it to build up in the area underneath, a contamination is occurring in side the drum. One chemical is being loaded on top the previous solution, causing the newly loaded chemical to weaken . If this condition occurs, the processed film will almost always come out light or magenta.

Check to document on "Flooding at Drum" to correct this problem

2. If you are not flooding, make sure the temperature is correct in the heating chamber. Run a "Calibrate Temp" from the unit and if you own an 8 roll unit or a super sidekick check your drums

3. If your temperature is correct, remix developer

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Leaking At Drum Super Sidekick

Flooding at the drum, (excessive dripping at spindle area),is cause by one of two reasons:

1. Level sensors set to high

2. Wrong amout of reels selected

3. Unit not Level

First check your level sensors for proper adjustment. This procedure is explained in your Manual.

If the levels appear to be correct, check with the operator to eliminate the possibility of  human error.

( processing two rolls, selected four )

If the above two are correct, test for unlevel machine. Take the four reel drum ( no lid ) and a

spindle, and insert it in the unit. Add 15 oz of water in the drum. Inspect the distance between the surface of the water and the bottom of the spindle, first on the left side of the drum, then the right. If the water level appears to be lower on the right side, shime the left side of the unit to even out the water

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Stuck in "Flush" ( Unit Alarms )

First make sure you have not run out of water or are using deionized water.

The unit will attempt to draw water from the supply during the flush mode. If, after 50 seconds, the unit does not sense water, it will go into an alarm.[Note: using deionized water will not be sensed by the unit causing it to alarm] CHECK TO SEE IF YOU HAVE WATER. If there is plenty of water, and you are not using deionized water, look in the heating chamber to see if there is water in it. If there is, see if there is water coming out the flush line. If there is, then most likely a  green ground wire that is soldered to the bottom of the heating chamber has detached, causing the level sensors not to sense water. If there is no water coming out the flush line and the heating chamber has some water in it, turn the unit off then back on again and select drain. After draining, remove the black door thats located on the right side of the unit, select flush from the plus button and press start. Observe by looking through the opening on the right side of the unit, the flow of water entering the heating chamber. If it is weak and the unit goes into an alarm again, the load pump, is defective and must be replaced

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Clean Sensors

If you receive the message to "clean sensor", the unit cannot read the temperature sensor mounted inside the drum correctly. First clean the contacts on the machine and the drum. Gently push the contacts together on the machine.

Insert the drum and try again. If the drum is still not recognized, try inserting the other drum. If the machine operates properly, the problem is with the one drum. Usually this means the sensor inside the drum has failed and the drum needs to be replaced.

If neither drum is sensed by the machine, a problem exists with one of the wires attached to the back of the contacts inside the machine.

Open the unit and inspect each contact from the inside.

On one contact you will find a red wire, and on the other you will find a green.

Make sure both wires are tighten to the contacts, and that they are not touching each other.

If all the above seems good, call the tech support at Photo-Therm

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E6 looks over developed

If your E6 film looks over developed (Light), this is usually the result of one of the following reasons:

First, when you mix the developer, check your mixing instructions. Then make sure the temperature of the mixed developer is not above the processing temperature.Let the newly mixed chemistry sit for a period of time to lower the temperature.

Second, run a "Calibrate Temp" to make sure the temperature is not running hot. Also if you own an sk8, sk8rg, sk8rh or a super sidekick, make sure the contactors on the drum and machine are clean and making good contact. Check HERE to find out how  

Third, if your selector valve is the old style, (13 stainless steel tubes) run a "dummy run" no film, and time the developer. If its to long, the problem is the selector valve is low on grease causing it to take a long time to make it to its next position. This will add time on your developer

Run the lube cycle 2 or 3 times

Turn the unit on, hold the plus button until you reach "Lube". Press the start button. Wait until the unit beeps and tells you to "turn off unit".

Take the allen wrench that came with the unit and insert it into the grease fitting in the back of the unit. Looking from the front, it is above the last steel tube from the selector valve on the right. Give it 1/2 turn clockwise and turn the unit on until it Initializes.Repeat the process again.

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Under Developed E6

If your E6 is coming out under developed, (dark) either your temperature is to low or your developer is weak or diluted

1. Run a "Calibrate Temp" from the unit to confirm the developer is reaching the correct temperature

  If you own an 8 roll unit check your drums sensors and contacts on the machine to make sure they are clean. Dirty contacts on the drum will report back the the unit the wrong ambient temperature causing the unit to under/overheat the developer.

2.Make sure that you are not "flooding" from the processing drum. If during the process the drum starts leaking chemistry, causing it to build up in the area underneath, a contamination is occurring in side the drum. One chemical is being loaded on top the previous solution, causing the newly loaded chemical to weaken . If this condition occurs, the processed film will almost always come out light or magenta. (When operating a SuperSideKick, this step is not necessary)

Check to document on "Flooding at Drum" to correct this problem

3. If your temperature is correct, remix developer

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